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🦎 New owner checklist

What to buy for a new leopard gecko

Two items get left in the shop by nearly every first-time buyer, and they are the two that matter most: the thermostat and the scale. Everything else on this list is easier to fix later than those two are.

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Every link below is a search, not a product endorsement. The criteria come straight from the handbook; choosing the item is yours. We have not tested specific brands and will not pretend otherwise.

Buy the thermostat before the gecko.

A heat source without a thermostat can cook an animal that has no reliable reflex to move off a hot surface. As the book puts it: you cannot fix a temperature problem by watching your gecko.

The enclosure

Tank

A 20-gallon works. An 18-inch height gives you room to hang a UVB tube and a heat lamp at a sensible distance from the basking surface. Front-opening cabinets at 4×2×2 ft are the upper end of what reputable sources recommend.

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Thermostat

Non-negotiable, and the single item most often skipped. It is what stands between a heat source and a burned animal.

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Thermometer / temp gun

You verify temperatures with an instrument, not by watching behaviour. Run the enclosure empty for a full week before the animal goes in — an empty tank that runs too hot is a thermostat setting, not an emergency.

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Three hides

Warm at the hot end directly over the heat, cool at the other, and humid. The humid hide is the single most effective shedding intervention there is — it is what stands between your gecko and a retained shed that constricts toes.

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Ongoing

Gram scale

The other item left in the shop. Weight is the earliest health signal you get.

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Calcium supplement

Dusting powder, with and without D3 depending on your lighting setup — the book's Chapter on supplementation covers which.

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Substrate

Something you can defend. The book's chapter on substrate is worth reading before you buy anything loose.

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The Leopard Gecko New Owner's HandbookThe reasoning behind every line on this list — by Casey Whitfield
© Saul to Paul Books